Authentic, creative Mexican food at Condesa

By Don Fowler
Posted 4/28/16

My friend Aquil Medeira of US FOODS never steers me wrong. He knows about every new restaurant in the state, especially the good ones.

We enjoy Mexican food on occasion, but usually find a …

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Authentic, creative Mexican food at Condesa

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My friend Aquil Medeira of US FOODS never steers me wrong. He knows about every new restaurant in the state, especially the good ones.

We enjoy Mexican food on occasion, but usually find a similarity in preparation that makes it unnecessary to travel more than five miles to satisfy our cravings.

Aquil urged us to travel “all the way to Smithfield,” actually a short ride north on Route 295 to the Route 7, Douglas Pike exit and the site of a former restaurant that closed suddenly and caused quite a stir over gift certificates.

Condesa Restaurante Mexicano is causing quite a stir with its authentic, creative Mexican food that separates it from the pack. Owner Ernesto Leon renovated and opened the restaurant in January and has been attracting a local following, with many repeat customers from Smithfield, Johnston and points north. He would like to welcome folks from the Cranston/Warwick area.

Ernesto and his chef, Raul, are from small towns in Mexico. They recently located to Warwick, so Ernesto could be with his family and began searching for locations, finding the Smithfield site to be a perfect match.

The 142-seat restaurant is tastefully decorated, and includes a bar area, where they have just introduced Trivia Night.

Immediately upon being seated, our waitress brought a basket of tortillas with four sauces to the table.

Unlike many Mexican restaurants, the menu is not overwhelming. There are the usual taco, burrito, enchilada and quesadilla dishes, ranging in price from $12-$15.

The difference is in the “Especialidades de la Casa,” which even I could translate to Specialties of the House.

Joyce ordered the Chile Lime Shrimp ($16), a huge plate of sautéed shrimp in habanero sauce, served with rice and a tasty, sweet vegetable medley. She loved and devoured it.

I chose a dish I had never experienced: sopes. Three cornmeal flatbreads filled with beans and Chorizo (you can also order steak, chicken, carnitas or poblano) topped with lettuce, sour cream and queso fresco. The combination of tastes was exquisite ($13).

Ernesto explained that Chorizo is served extensively in Mexico but prepared quite differently from the popular Portuguese sausage. It is ground, like beef, has a bit of a bite to it, and is served in a number of dishes.

Backing up to the appetizers, I enjoyed another unfamiliar dish, Quesa Fundida, which is served on special occasions in Mexico. The chef grills the Chihuahua cheese in a skillet, topping it with chorizo and pico de gallo ($11). It was heavenly. Joyce enjoyed one of her favorites, Shrimp Ceviche ($10).

We’ll be back, as there are more specialties to be tried, like Chiles en Nogada, a Pablono pepper stuffed with ground beef and fruit, covered with walnut sauce and topped with pomegranate ($15) and the Quesadillas Al Pastor, Chihuahua cheese quesadillas stuffed with al pastor pork, onion and cilantro, and topped with sour cream ($13).

Condesa has a luncheon menu, with items costing $8-$10, and including a Mexican burger, Hueves Rancheros, and other tasty items. Lunch and dinner include vegan meals.

Condesa is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner and has a take-out menu. The phone number is 349-3935.

With Cinco de Mayo next Thursday, they have a special celebration with piñatas for the kids, a trip for two to Cancun, and special prizes all week.

They are taking reservations for Mother’s Day. All mothers will receive a white rose and half off a meal.

For reservations call 349-3935. The address is 970 Douglas Pike, Smithfield.

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